As with the HS10 Fuji have kept the tiltable LCD screen with the HS20 but have improved it considerably. Now the LCD is a 460,000 pixel screen as opposed to the 230,000 pixel model on the HS10.
You may have read in one of my previous posts that care is needed with this LCD as its easy to get the exposures wrong. The added clarity and color of the LCD is both a Boone and a Bane.While greater clarity (improved focus) and better color rendition is desirable, you need to take into account what the setting on the LCD is when you get it. If like mine its set to +-0 (default) I would suggest leaving it there until you are used to the camera. With the HS10, I was able to run my LCD at a setting of +4, not fully bright but nearly so. This worked out to be a good level to have it as it fairly accurately rendered the correct exposure on screen.
Not so for the HS20. I recently shot a wedding with the HS20 as well as using other cameras, and noted that even though the light was horrific at times the camera was almost uniformly underexposing. This came about from having the LCD brightness set to +4 as I had with the HS10, thus all the images appeared brighter on screen than they actually were when the shot was taken. Fortunately this under exposure wasnt too dramatic, but it makes for a lot of extra work in Lightroom or Photoshop.
So far my experimentation with this LCD is that it should be set to 0 or perhaps -1 for bright light and higher if the scene seems too dark.. If possible take a series of test shots and review them in camera or if you have a laptop with you in your preferred Post Processor.
Kim Letkeman over at his "Nothing Special Blog" outlines some ideas for shooting with EXR cameras. Although he hasnt at present had the chance to review the HS20, He has the F550 a similar sensored camera to the HS20, not to mention several others.
Kim's article can be found here
I have now settled on +1 for the LCD setting and this seems to give me pretty accurate results per exposure. Its bright enough even in intense sunlit areas and generally bright enough for low light shooting as well. I use Provia film simulation exclusively, so for those who may use other F/Sim you may well have to readjust the brightness of the LCD for accurate viewing.